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Top rides
*Ruta Nacional 9 from Jujuy to Salta, Argentina. Despite its name, this is a single track road winding through high forest past lakes and mountains. Other traffic? There is no other traffic.
*Ruta 52 from Susques to Jujuy, Argentina. Dropping more than 3,000 metres in height through dry, red canyons and alongside giant cactus forests where the llamas graze.
*Ruta 27 from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile to Ruta 52 Susques, Argentina. A freezing, high altitude ride through the desert across the Andes with only the wild vicuñas for company.
*The CA02 from Cartago to San Isidro, Costa Rica. Over the mountains and through the cloud forest with mist blowing up the gullies and across the road like steam from a kettle.
*Ruta 135D from Nochixtlan to Oaxaca. The road of my dreams. Perfect surface, perfect weather, perfect semi-arid countryside ending with a parking spot outside Italian Coffee in Oaxaca.
*Ruta 110 from Guanajuato to Dolores Hidalgo, Mexico. Through the beautiful mountains of Mexico's colonial heartland. Answers the question where are all Mexico's bikers? On Ruta 110.
*Ruta 25 from Guacochi to Creel, Chihuahua. 150 kilometres of bends, bends and more bends up mountainsides and across river valleys. At one point, I was reading my own number plate.
*Ruta 30 from Cuatrocienegas to San Pedro de las Colonias, Coahuila, Mexico. Star in your very own Western as the stunning desert scenary rolls by.
*Highway 61 from Tallahassee to Wakulla Springs, Florida. Despite the rain this ride through the backwoods reminded me of why I'm out here.
* Take the C-30 from Apalachicola to Port St Joe, Florida, as it curves along the Gulf of Mexico.
* Route 9336 from Florida City to Flamingo. Starts at Starbucks and ends up overlooking Florida Bay in the Everglades. Sunshine, no traffic, a quality road with stunning scenery and incredible wildlife thrown in for free.
* The Card Sound Road from Homestead to Key West. For that perfect Ewan 'n' Charley moment blasting through the countryside in the sunshine and rewarded just after the toll booth with a high level view over the trees to the Keys beyond. Worth every cent of the dollar toll.Archives
Blogroll
Worst Crap
1 Bedbugs in Islamadora, Florida, and Zacatecas, Mexico.
2 Amount of saturated fat gathered at stomach. I am the human manatee.
3 Thunderstorm at Otter Creek. I'm only just drying out.
4 Post Office in Eagle Pass. Could they be less helpful? Perhaps they could have spat at me.
5 Topes in Mexico. Traffic calming designed by someone who hates motorbikes.
6 The "drivers" in Honduras. Give that man a metal box on wheels and a death wish.
7 Food poisoning in Leon, Nicaragua. Greasy pork in the middle of the afternoon? I was practically asking for it.On other pages
Top scoff
*Alf, on the corner of Salta and Peru in Santiago del Estero, Argentina. The best tallarines outside Italy. Plus a warm welcome after a long, cold ride.
*Fresh sugar cane juice in the archaeological park at St Agustin, Colombia. Served with a couple of slices of limon to cut through the sweetness.
*The J y Y soda in the market in San Isidro, Costa Rica. Perfectly grilled chicken and huge portions of mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables and salad. With garlic bread. Mmmm...
*The pupusas on the main square in Suchitoto, El Salvador. A kind of stuffed tortilla, they are served with fresh tamarind juice. The cost? Two pupusas and a tamarind juice for 80 cents. That's dinner sorted.
*The secret burrito restaurant in Zacatecas. The chile relleno flavour are the best, but the rest are pretty outstanding. Want to know how to get there? Ask. It's what the Spanish lessons are for.
*Gorditas Dona Julia, Zacatecas, Mexico. For that spicy late night snack, these are hard to beat.
*Frazier's on Barataria Boulevard, Louisiana. Knocks all New Orleans restaurants into a cocked hat. Try the stuffed bell peppers.
*Five Guys, Panama City Beach, Florida. The greatest burgers in the known universe.
*David's Coffee Shop, South Beach, Florida. Cuban? Buffet? It's what the the mouth was invented for.
*Threadgill's, North Lamar Boulevard, Austin TX. The gumbo, rice and cornbread were all excellent, and served by a white guy with the most impressive afro I've ever seen.June 2012 M T W T F S S « Jul 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Meta
Hello Jan,
This is Merry from El Chincua (remember ~ lunchtime conversation with the two incredibly interesting American women and the little girl?) I returned to the States on Sunday and have been running at mach speed ever since. Missing Mexico and the it’s essence terribly right now. Found your blog address in my purse this morning and so I decided to log on. Sounds like you are continuing to have quite the adventure, (I’ve only read the most recent two entries but particularly enjoyed the road kill section!). Drive safe and remember that Mexico is as everyone has told you, a very, very dangerous place (so ironic that Mexicans are some of the loveliest people in the world):)
Merry
Hi, Merry – great to hear from you. Glad to hear you got back safely. Like you, I was sorry to leave the butterfly sanctuary but I was not sad to leave the village. It was freezing in my hotel and after two nights shivering myself to sleep I was glad to get to Mexico City where at least it’s possible to sleep without a motorcycle jacket on. If you didn’t get to Mexico City, I’d really recommend it. Bring earplugs!
Hi Jan,
I love Mexico City! Stephanie and I stayed an extra day off of our tour so we could visit the Frieda Kahlo House and the museum of popular art (off the Zocalo vs. the one in coyoacan) ~ both of which were fabulous. I’ve been desperate to get down to Chiapas and Oaxaca as well so your recent entry was great. I’m hoping to head to South Mexico in late May/early June. Any suggestions on things to definitely do and see?
Merry
Hi, Merry – there’s so much to see and do you definitely won’t be bored. Oaxaca City is a nice place to hang out for a couple of days, and the Zapotec ruins at nearby Monte Alban are worth half a day (although I’d avoid the expensive cafe). If you don’t have your own motorbike to hand there are plenty of local buses that go there at a fraction of the cost of tours.
I preferred San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, however. Oaxaca was nice, but seemed to wear it’s tourist status a bit wearily while the welcome I’ve received in Chiapas has been outstanding. The landscapes are incredible, also, and tomorrow I’m going to Palenque so I’ll let you know if that’s worthwhile.
Hello Jan,
We heard about you in Brazil.
I hope you can get to here. I’m from Rio de Janeiro. If you need some directions, we have many bike shops (if you need) and places to visit. We have many nice beaches also, as you probably know.
I’m from a sport bike club and we like to get on the road when possible.
There are some people planning to ride to Patagonia and Terra del Fuego, Argentina. They usually do it in october or later.
Have a nice ride and drive safe! Good luck!
Hi Leandro
Thanks for the good wishes. Hope I can get to Brazil, too. Just need to remember to turn left at Peru, eh?
I know the guys at palmetto motorsports as I used to live in Florida. I now spend most of my time in Nosara Costa Rica, and also own a 2008 KLR 650. If you get a chance on your way back north or need any help in CR give me a call or stop by my coffe shop, Jungle Java and I will buy you breakfast. Good luck on your adventures.
Rourke 506-2682-1143
Thanks, Rourke. I’ve never turned down a cup of coffee in my life. Wish I’d known about your place on the way down…
Hi Jan, i wish to meet you before, but wathever, i wish you nice trip and hope that your short stay in colombia was as agreeable as it can be.
jorge soto
suzuki super store armenia
facebook groups: superstore armenia
Thanks, Jorge. I bought the gloves at your friends’ shop so now I have warm hands to go with my warm memories of Armenia.
I’m not really sure how I ran into your blog site. Not really sure what to think of it either.
But honestly, I can’t believe you stayed in that crappy hotel on Kennedy Blvd. in Tampa, FL… I’m from South Tampa and as soon as I saw that picture, I knew where it was. There are many stories about that place – you probably don’t even want to know – or even begin to imagine.
Also, I’m sorry you have such a bad impression of Americans. Most of us came from Europe at some point, so I’m not really sure where that puts Europeans.
Anyway, thanks for the afternoon humour!
Hi Leeanna – I loved that hotel in Tampa. The guys there were really friendly, it had motorbike parking and was within walking distance of the only Starbucks open on Thanksgiving. I couldn’t ask for any more. As for my impression of Americans… I hope the blog doesn’t read that I’ve got a bad impression, because that could not be further from the truth. Every American I met – almost without exception, and including the mad ones – were incredibly warm and generous. The only bad American I met was in the post office at Eagle Pass in Texas. (I’m sure he was descended from a Londoner.) So, one out of 250 million is not bad odds.
Jan
Just discussing you with an old pal from nottingham days and stumbled across your rather beautifully crafted blog. I hope whatever you are doing after your epic adventure is as rewarding,
Janet